Colere (‘cultivate and worship land and spirit’) is a micro-negotiant wine project seeking out small unique parcels of the highest quality certified organic/biodynamic grapes, from some of New Zealand’s leading wine growing sites and farmers.
Recently I had the pleasure of spending some time tasting and reviewing six wines from Julian Richards, winemaker at Colere Wines – the source of the grapes for his wines come from both The Wrekin Vineyard and the Ashmore Vineyard, both situated in the Southern Valleys area of Marlborough. The wines are beautifully made with care and attention to detail – hand picked, whole bunch & natural fermentation, some full malolactic, time aging on lees, minimal use of sulphates & no fining or filtering on bottling.
Julian says “The vineyard was always my first love, particularly the people.” He has worked in both the Vineyard and Winery with 20+ years experience within organics & biodynamics. Some of the wineries he has worked with are Seresin Estate, Pyramid Valley, Bell Hill, Millton vineyard and winery, Mountford Estate, The Wrekin vineyard, Dog Point winery and Churton Wines. He has also spent time in South Africa, France, Italy, Austria, Australia, Canada, USA, Chile and has 30 International harvests under his belt as well.
“Fermentation and experimentation, like fire and simple tools, are some the most basic transformative processes that we can use in life that for the basis of human culture. This culture begins at the farm and binds a people to its land and to its artisans. This requires first and foremost that we enter into an alchemical relationship with bacteria and fungi, and that we bring to our tables food and wine prepared by the magicians, not machines.”
With this in mind the wines of Colere are very much cultivated, no less than plants and animals are cultivated, and for that matter no less than other products of human work and thought. His thoughts are that life is a rhythmic force. There is no better time to witness this than spring and summer, the time of awakening, as buds burst, plants utilize the power of the sun to expand, renew and reclaim.
Wine maker Julian feels these pulses through the seasons can be tenderly captured in an intelligent wine, a wine complimented by a reverence and respect for the natural growing rhythms, the pulse of a vines expansion to leaf and contraction to seed. At harvest, the living shift once again with the transformative explosion of life during fermentation, and then the settling and calming during biological stabilization, the tender raising of the wines during assemblage before their passage to bottle.
“And finally patiently resting/aging before the final journey to your glass… Really, it’s all about the glass of wine at the end of the day.“
For more information visit: https://www.colere.co.nz/
JB’s Notes on Julian’s Colere Wines
Colere ‘The Wrekin Vineyard’ Chenin Blanc 2021
Mid lemon in colour with green-gold hues. Enticing floral nose, with sweet apple fruit, spice, white pepper, a sea salt note & yeasty lees aromas. Medium plus bodied palate with lush fruit flavours reflecting the nose, spiced apple, honey, a piquant grapefruit acidity & layers of texture, stony mineral element, creamy mouthfeel – long, complex & delicious finish.
Colere ‘Holon’ Ashmore Vineyard, Chardonnay 2020
Mid yellow – gold in colour with a faint haziness, medium viscosity. The nose begins with stone-fruit, tart citrus aromas, cashew nut, creamy / leesy notes follow. The palate has flavours of ripe apricots, rock-melon & peach, some spiced oak influence, the zesty acidity, creamy textural & chalky tannin elements, are all nicely integrated & in balance. Long vibrant & juicy finish.
Colere ‘Ashmore Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2020
Bright clear straw coloured wine with subtle golden hues, medium viscosity. In the nose, immediate aromas of ripe stone-fruit, peaches, lemon citrus & biscuity lees notes too. Layers of complexity on the palate, white stone-fruit & juicy citrus flavours, bright grape-fruity acidity & grip is rounded out with creamy malo influence, spice & subtle oak. The finish is juicy, concentrated & persistent.
Colere, Southern Valleys ‘Rosato’ 2022, Marlborough NZ
Deep salmon pink in colour with orange / copper hues, clear, tiny sediment in the bottle. Fragrant aromas of cherries & strawberry, red apple & a little savoury & spice notes in the nose. Lovely mid-weighted palate, slightly creamy & yet crunchy with red berry & cherry flavours, a crisp acidity & powdery tannins. Textured, savoury, spicy with warmth & a long tasty finish. A delicious, full-flavoured Pinot Rosé with a bit of oomph!
Colere ‘Fractal’ Ashmore Vineyard Pinot Noir 2020
Translucent ruby to cherry red in colour, a hint of age at the rim, slightly hazy lighter bodied wine. Interesting savoury nose at first, earthy & herbal, then red berries, tree tomato, pepper & spice notes follow. On the palate red berry & cherry fruit flavours, followed by spices & pepper. It’s layered & textured with grippy tannins, subtle oak influence & a piquant acidity. A generous, complex, savoury pinot with a long, bone-dry finish.
Colere ‘Ashmore Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2020
Transparent raspberry to ruby red in colour, medium bodied wine. Fresh cherry, red berry & plum aromas in the nose, a little earthy, leafy note & subtle barrel spice notes follow. Tasty fruit-forward palate with juicy raspberry, cherry & plum flavours, savoury, spice & smoke elements all underpinned with fine silky tannins & bright, refreshing acidity. Loads of texture & mouthfeel – Concentrated persistent finish.